Monday, August 11, 2008

Sleeve Measurement


If you want to self measure your jacket sleeve for functional cuffs (where the buttons open/close at the sleeves) you can try to measure it yourself, but any erroneous measurement that requires alteration will be at your expense. If you need up to an inch longer on functional cuff sleeves, it is possible to do, and an extra button/buttonhole may be needed depending on how much you lengthen. If you need it shorter, about .25" can be done fairly easily, anymore than that and you may need to have new sleeves made, again at your expense. But if you decide to take a measurement for surgeon (functional) cuffs here is how:

1. you will need an existing jacket that fits well (if the sleeves are too long/short you will need to accomodate this adjustment in the measurement)
2. hang the jacket on a hanger so it is draping as naturally as possible (pics show measurement on table but I dont recommend this if you haven't done this before)
3. start measurement at the top of sleevehead
4. go all the way down to bottom along the longest route
5. to keep it in perspective, an average person up to 5'6 might have a 22-23" sleeve. 5'7-5'10" can range from 23"-25". 5'11" and taller can range from 25" - 27"

Again, to reiterate, any mismeasurement of sleeves and subsequent tailoring required afterward on functional cuff jackets will be done at wearer's cost, so make sure you measure as correct as possible!

Back Shoulder


The back shoulder is done the same as the front...generally the back shoulder is .5" - 1" wider than the front, for reference. Some guys can measure the same as the front, but it's more common for the back to be slightly wider. If you cannot get an accurate back measurement, the front can be used to proportionately guesstimate the back, by adding 1" to the front.

Front Shoulder measurement




Shoulder measurements seem to be tricky, so hopefully this helps. Measurement would be "seam to seam" on a well fitting shirt (key here is WELL fitting, not too narrow or wide). Most guys will have their shoulders 7easure anywhere in the range of 16" - 18" across the front, depending on your height and overall build.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

General Self Measure Guide


This figure should help in figuring out where to self measure. Make sure you're using a measure tape, and keep tape snug. Not tight where it constricts, and not loose (don't use any "finger allowance" which is common way that tailors will measure). Make sure the tape is measuring level to the ground, not angled. Make sure you are standing straight as bending over will affect the measurement. It is recommended someone help you, esp for the shoulder measurements. It's also recommended you do several sets to make sure you are getting similar measures without much discrepancy.